All Tied Up: The Essential Scarf

For women and men alike there is no single accessory more important in the colder months than a scarf -- no, don't even argue with us, it's true. The scarf, like the ever-handy towel in Douglas Adams's Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy ( ... the most "massively useful thing an interstellar hitchhiker can have comes in handy in most every situation"), tops off your look, keeps you warm and can be styled so many ways from Sunday they should add another month to the calendar.

A scarf alone can take you from day to night, from city to country chic. Wear it like a necktie, a shawl, a belt or a bandolier. Tie up your hair or tie down the strap of your handbag. They come in silks and wools and cottons, patterns and plain colors, and all varieties of texture.

We recently received a shipment of pashminas that set our little stylist hearts a-flutter. Their tapestried fabrics provide rich color and texture while a 28" width gives plenty of accessorizing latitude. Thus inspired, we present some styling options to make the most of this all-important piece!

The lush textures in this burgundy pashmina activate a simple outfit.
Wear it in generous, thick folds as a neck scarf (right) or tie a simple
overhand knot for an over-the-shoulder casual bolero (left).

The drape of this paisley pashmina makes it a superb layering tool.
Thinner than the tapestry pieces, it has excellent flow and a shimmery finish.
Wear it like a Roman Patrician (left) or bundle-knotted like a kiffeyeh.


Leah Benjamin wool scarves mix complex patterns and colors with lovely sheen.
The wool threads fall straight and flat, letting you style these scarves with the foppish
fling of a Barbary corsair (left) or as a sloppy-chic, once-around choker (right).

Bored of War? Try the Semaphore.

We wrote recently about the prayer scarf craze that was sweeping the stores. Seems like prayers aren't the only things in demand: anything that puts the brakes on this mad, mad, mad, mad world seems decidedly "in." The latest resurrection is an classic: the peace symbol, which began its life not quite how many Americans remember.

Turn back the clock to a chilly, gray Good Friday 1958 and English protesters were marching on Aldermaston, the countryside farm town where Britain built its nuclear weapons. Gerald Holtom, a designer and artist, convinced the Direct Action Committee (DAC) against Nuclear War's Campaign for Nuclear Disarmament to brand their protest with a visual symbol. Bearing in mind Goya's Spanish rebels and merging the semaphore initials for "N"uclear "D"isarmament, the well-known symbol was born. New life was breathed into the symbol when it became the standard for protest in America during the Viet Nam War.

With conflict and disaster seemingly de rigueur, it is only appropriate that this old chestnut becomes again au courant. The Raj peace sign scarves have an all-over peace pattern on sheer fabric. Wear them on mild days over basic colors for a visual pop and billowy silhouette. And some big sunglasses, as big as you can get. The scarf is easily one of your most important and versatile wardrobe accessories. We recommend spending some time on the knotting; Europeans get this.

(You will absolutely drive us to tears if you buy this scarf and wrap it around your neck like you are half-hitching a horse to the post. Display this scarf proudly. Let it rope and flow around your shoulders. A good scarf knot defines your look and edges your chin and jawline, highlights your neck and shoulders, and visually ties together your whole ensemble. Let it carry your wardrobe. Match it to your shoes or purposefully mismatch it to be achingly fashionable.)

The peace sign has also been cropping up in rings, necklaces and bags. We're wondering if the Bush Administration's warmongering isn't helping push fashion into a hippie chic revival as a generation after X starts to care again about how we are conducting ourselves in the world. Look for smiley faces, vibrant colors (if not tie-dye ... please) and other Age of Aquarius motifs to surface throughout summer.

We’ve been seeing a lot of the larger trends like yellows, turquoises and patent do well but one that took off (and took us by surprise) was the prayer scarf. Remember the pashmina craze a couple years ago? It’s like that, only with more love and peace and optimism (and style) involved. Unlike pashminas, these scarves are a more manageable size, come in engaging patterns with sewn details and are a much more versatile accessory.

Sir Alistair Rai, by Kiran Rai, kickstarted the trend by co-opting the Tibetan khata (a ceremonial scarf offered at the start of a relationship to indicate goodwill and positivity) and hand-embroidering it with feel-good prescriptions of “Love,” “Peace” and “Faith.” Throwing in the color scheme of Tibetan prayer scarves (representing the five elements of earth, air, water, fire and sky) and Sanskrit patterning, these scarves become a microcosm of Tibetan heritage, spreading a codified message of understanding and compassion through fashion. They’ve since been spotted on a range of young celebs such as Jessica Alba, Nicole Ritchie, Ashlee Simpson and the like.

Scarves are an essential wardrobe item because they are so versatile. These prayer scarves, with their festive colors and embroidered detail, are fantastic for gussying up an outfit when you don’t feel like putting in the effort. They are perfect for seasonal transitions or micro-climate locales like San Francisco where weather changes are unpredictable and sudden. Wear them instead of a jacket for quick jaunts, or with a light coat for extended walks out of doors. Lastly, the sheer fabric lends itself to delicate layering and folds, giving additional texture and character to anything from a plain tee to business attire. And in a time of seemingly unending conflict (are we fighting Eurasia ... or Eastasia?), what better look to promulgate than peace, love and understanding?